Estudo comparativo da modelagem plana de um vestido feminino sob a ótica dos biotipos propostos na norma ABNT NBR 13.377/95 e 16.933/21

Abstract

The body and clothing are kinetic. The interaction between design, fashion and the body materialize clothing, which affects the sensitivity of the being and syncretizes expression, language and communication. Understanding the relevance of the modeling process in the construction of garments, from an ergonomic and aesthetic perspective, to obtain good results in the fit and comfort of a product, it is necessary to understand the body, in its measurements, shapes and volumes. So, in addition to the body biotypes: ectomorph, mesomorph and endomorph, currently, the second subdivision of female silhouettes that are associated with geometric shapes, such as: triangle, rectangle, inverted triangle, spoon, among others, has been recognized by ABNT. , which present different measurement patterns when compared to each other. In this sense, this work aims to carry out a comparative study between the hourglass, rectangular and spoon female body measurements table, through the construction of the flat modeling of a 'tube' model dress, following the measurements measured by the ABNT NBR standard 13,377/95 and 16,933/21, recently formulated, with the aim of analyzing the aspects of fit, comfort and wearability. The research methodology had a quali-quanti approach, applied nature, exploratory objectives and experimental procedures in the laboratory. As a result, it was observed that the piece developed from specific tables for each biotype really helped in product-user interaction in both functional and aesthetic aspects. In other words, it was possible to analyze the influence of body shape on the modeling process aiming at the wearability of the clothing. The fit and adaptability of the product to different silhouettes for the same piece created from the same modeling process using a standardized measurement table is achieved when the table takes biotypes into account. And also, it was possible to identify the change between the distribution in the size grid in the measurement tables between the two standards.